The ideal size for any aquarium is determined by the fish the person would like to keep. For freshwater planted aquariums, a tank of around 90-220L (2.5-4ft) is a good starting size, this will give you the opportunity the build a nice, interesting scape, then should you wish to change have the size to try something different.
For African cichlids a tank of around 220-400L (4-6ft) depending on which species of cichlids you would like to keep.
For reef aquariums 180-500L (3-5ft) is a good starting size. You will gain some stability with a larger body of water without the need to spend up big with equipment for your first tank.
Once you gain confidence and experience with your first aquarium, our bespoke range of aquariums will satisfy all your dream tank goals.
There are many pros and cons to rimless aquariums. The one main draw card when looking at a rimless aquariums is the sleek and elegant look of the open top and no bracing. What most hobbyist learn shortly after stocking the aquarium is
- Fish will jump out much easier in a rimless aquarium (simply put, fish swim up an edge of glass and pop straight out the top, braced aquariums have a glass edge that stops this happening). So the once minimalist looking rimless aquarium now has an ugly nylon mesh net on top of it, not so elegant after all.
- When cleaning the aquarium the water is very likely to spill out of the top of the aquarium and drip down the sides, this can overtime cause damage to the cabinetry. You will often notice this in shop with a display tank that is a couple of years old
- As there is no bridges or bracing the need for thicker glass is essential. This makes the aquarium much heavier to handle and manoeuvre.
The best alternative for a rimless aquarium is a eurobraced aquarium. You still get the same benefit of light penetration, an open top looking aquarium, with a small often 40-60mm perimeter of glass that hugs the inside of all the panels and is joined together. This adds strength to the build and confines the water better inside the aquarium when cleaning, a mesh nylon top may still be required for some species but there is a much greater reduction in the likelihood of fish jumping out.
Standard sheets of glass come in 3660mmx2440mm (12ft x 8ft), therefore when building an aquarium a standard sheet can often create the highest yield with minimal wastage when measured up imperially.
Our Aquariums are guaranteed against leaks from silicon joins for 12 months.
Aquariums that are supported by stands and cabinets not supplied by Aquariums Brisbane will need to be constructed by an insured tradesperson, designed by an engineer or approved by Aquariums Brisbane prior to the aquarium being filled with water in order to have any warranty.
Using thicker glass for the front and back will limit bending and allow these panels to withhold the heavy pressures of water. These panels can be reflected in the safety factor used for the entire build.
The front/back and sides are attached together as well as to the base of the aquarium. When we add base blades to the perimeter of the base this can increase the thickness of the join allow for much great adhesion to the front/back and sides.
The use of bracing across the top of the aquarium can considerably increase the integrity of the panels. As the water pressure pushes on the panels, the bottom joins are under stress, however, gluing bracing around the top of the aquarium can fix all the panels together across the top allowing another point of strength. Adding bridges across the top of the aquarium can also minimise the bending of the front and back panels.
Aluminium has great adhesion with both glass and silicon. This can be added to glass joins rather than plastic to add extra strength.
The best location for an aquarium varies depending on each home or business, some of the following considerations should be made:
- Safety and stability of the floor the aquarium will be on.
- Limiting excessive natural sunlight
- Avoid areas of temperature fluctuation, such as air conditioning outlets or fireplaces
Most importantly, choose a position where the aquarium can be enjoyed regularly.
Base blades are thin pieces of glass glued to the perimeter of the base of the aquarium. What this allows is the front/back and side panels to be glued to a larger surface area, creating a much stronger join, this can be doubled again for even further strength.
A rimless aquarium does contain any bracing like a traditional or eurobraced aquarium. As there is no support from bracing the glass thickness must be considerably thicker to prevent bending and to allow additional surface area for
A traditionally braced aquarium is braced the same way as a eurobraced aquarium however an additional bridge brace will be placed across the middle of the aquarium to add additional strength. This bridge brace helps assist the front and back panels stay straight and minimise bending. Aquariums that are longer than 1220 (4ft) will often have additional braces, usually every 350-400mm.
A eurobraced aquarium contains glass blades glued to the inside of the aquarium just above the water level. The blades run the entire length of the aquarium with the blades on each end glued both to the front and back blades and along the side pane.
Ultra clear or low iron glass (Starfire is a brand of glass), is a clearer form of float glass. Standard float glass has a slight green tint to it and can inhibit the natural colours of some fish and corals.
As the iron is reduced it is softer and much more prone to scratches. Often hobbyist need to consider their cleaning techniques of low iron glass. Hobbyist wishing to get many years scratch free out of their aquarium should consider using standard float glass.
When glass is cut we call this an annealed edge, it can have a mild distortion to the edge, and sometimes a slight angle. This edge often isn’t very attractive and is hidden behind black plastic corner strips. A flat polished edge has a 45 degree angle on each side with a perfectly smooth face. This looks quite attractive and is a most minimalist edge work for an aquarium.
We can flat polished the bridges on the aquarium as well giving the aquarium a very elegant finish.
When a sump filter is used there are multiple ways to connect the drains and return lines from the aquarium to the sump filter.using and intrernal or external overflow is the most silent method for plumbing an aquarium to a sump.
Building a internal weir box involves drilling holes in the base of the aquarium with a weir style box placed around the holes, as the water is pumped into the aquarium the water level will rise up then spill over the edge of the weir allowing water to enter the drainage plumbing. When the aquarium is to be mounted flush against a wall and an external overflow isn’t an option this is the best overflow.
An external weir is when the back or side panel is water cut to have a lower section on the glass face. As the aquarium water is pumped into the aquarium the water level overflow down the lower face and into a small glass box silicone to the back of the aquarium. Here the plumbing takes the water down to the sump filter. For a saltwater aquarium where surface skimming is very important this is by far the best form of overflow.
An alternative to an overflow is to have holes drilled in the back or side panel of the tank close to the water level. This is a very easy option to plumb and access but flow rates and noise may be an issue.
To hide the unwanted distraction of power cords and plumbing hoses, a vinyl backing can be used. Often people will use a decorative paper backing on the aquarium which can look effective, however adhering it to the glass successfully can be quite difficult.
Vinyl backing comes in various shades of blue and black and is a very smooth elegant finish.
An air tunnel is our solution to one of the most unsightly parts of an aquarium. Concealing air line out of view is always a challenge, some people use drift wood or rocks, or run the lines down the corner of the aquarium and underneath the gravel (often with little success)
Our air tunnels are a 6mm diameter acrylic tube that is siliconed into the back two corners of the aquarium. Then simply feed the airline through the air tunnel and down to the gravel bed from here the airline can easily be places under thew gravel with little
A safety factor is a number reflecting of the overall strength of the aquarium build. Glass sheets have pressure ratings based on thickness, and also the potential pressure capacity caused by wind. This doesn’t take into account aquariums, where the glass in use is subject to a constant pressure rating for its entire life. Quality of silicone, the preparation of the glass (including its composition), thickness of silicon used, number of bridges/bracing and thickness of panels are all taken into account when calculating a safety factor.
As a standard we use a minimum safety factor of 2.2, and will converse with our clients when the likelihood of a higher safety factor is recommended.
Quite often the main cause of a base cracking is an uneven surface the aquarium sits on. Styrofoam sheeting is essential at eliminating some issues with stands but a firm, level surface is paramount for a
Other causes can be from an incorrect glass size, or lack of care when adding and moving heavy decorations around such as rocks and large driftwood or ornaments.